The table was delivered today. We don't have the correct words to describe how wonderful it looks - whatever is beyond wonderful perhaps might work! It looks perfect in it's spot. Even the delivery men said it was a perfect fit. Wonderfully crafted and the tiger maple is just super!!!! Please thank everyone involved in the project for us. We could not be more pleased! Thanks so much for building the table for us!
~ Rob & Glenna S.
Dyes- We mix all of our own dyes, so your finish color choices are unlimited. We can match the finish color of an antique, a cabinet door, or another item in your home or we can provide you with samples of finish colors seen in our showroom. We layer our dyes and glazes, creating custom finishes with depth of color and character.
Glazes- Glaze is applied by hand after the first sealer coats go on but before the last top coats are sprayed. The glaze gets in the crevices and corners and gives the finish a quality that takes it the next step beyond just a factory-sprayed finish. It's like adding subtle shading to a pencil drawing. The finish comes to life with added depth and shadow.
Top Coat- We use an environmentally-friendly, alcohol-based lacquer to seal the dyes and to create a finish that is not only tough and impervious to most liquids but which also looks and feels satin-smooth. We spray four coats, top and bottom, inside and out, to make sure that the wood is sealed and that moisture absorption is minimized.
Paints- We use traditional milk paints to achieve authentic colors often found on existing antique colonial and Shaker furniture. By mixing milk paints, we can also create a range of custom hues and tones for your furniture.
Bees wax- The final finishing steps are to sand and polish the cured finish, followed by adding a coat or two of hand-rubbed paste bees wax. We recommend that you rub a coat of wax on your furniture about once a year.
(Our finishes and colors are proprietary.)
We use this term to describe how we "age" your furniture to add to the beauty of the wood and the unique character of the piece. The antiquing process has three components; hand planing, highlighting, and distressing. Hand planing is the art of cutting the grain of a table top. It can range from very subtle to very visible and helps to create the custom look of your furniture. Highlighting refers to the process of varying the color of the dye, often in areas where you would expect "wear" from years of loving use. Highlighting adds to the variation of color and gives "life" to each piece. Distressing is the art of aging your furniture. It can include "worm holes', scratches, and even splatters of paint or water, all elements consistently seen in antiques.
Light Antiquing - Wood is selected with minimal natural imperfections (even Mother Nature is never perfect!) Very light hand planing with minimal highlighting and very light distressing used to create a consistently uniform look to the wood.
Medium Antiquing - Wood is selected for the natural beauty of the grain and color. Hand planing is visible and highlighting and distressing is apparent, but subtle.
Heavy Antiquing - Wood is selected for natural imperfections. This can include knots and other variations in the grain. Hand planing is left rough to add texture to the wood. Other options include random-plank effect and square pegs in round holes to simulate spline assembly on tables. Highlighting is heavy to make the piece appear worn and well-loved. Distressing may include worm holes in a cluster, chisel scratches and splatters.